Great World

Baingan Bharta in pictures

2011-05-22T23:09:00.003+08:00

First, roast 2 large eggplants for 40+ minutes. Peel and mash.

Prepare the aromatics: slice 1-2 large yellow onions, green chilies, finely chop garlic and ginger.

Brown the onion and other aromatics on high heat in large quantity of ghee, stirring frequently. Browning is critical to the success of the dish. Onions in America have much more water than onions in Asia, so the browning process takes longer. This photo shows a partially browned batch of onions. They have another 5-10 minutes to go.

Add the spices (turmeric and chili), let fry a minute, then add canned drained tomatoes. Allow rich dark mixture to develop.

Add the mashed eggplant, garam masala, cilantro, and lime juice. Mix well and cook through.

Turn into a serving dish and line with cilantro. Tastes best the next day!

"Black Day" commemoration of Attabad landslide

2011-01-04T03:52:00.003+08:00

January 4 marks the 1 year anniversary of the Attabad landslide disaster in Gojal, Gilgit-Baltistan. Today, we commemorate with a "Black Day" for those who lost their lives, their homes, their crops and animals, and their way of life. Today we ask for restoration of the Karakorum Highway and removal of the dam and lake formed by the landslide. Today we send our thoughts and best wishes to the good people of Gojal.

Photo Credit: Rafee Hunxai

Becoming home

2010-10-21T16:12:00.002+08:00

It's taking a lot longer than I thought it would, for this to feel like home again. Everyone who knows me knows I love Boise. So what's taking so long?

A victory for business ethics

2010-08-07T07:16:00.008+08:00

I'm surprised at my own emotions. "Uncontrollable elation", I told my boss in an instant message.

His hubris brought him down. And despite all his impressive contributions, I cannot be sad.

Profits and stock price are only one piece of a balanced scorecard, and no more important than how we behave as ethical business people, and how we treat the other human beings working by our side. Profit growth guarantees the future of those people, while their ongoing well-being is guaranteed by daily ethical behavior, including respect, compassion, and following rules of conduct. This is what’s needed to balance present with future and encourage reasonable growth through a healthy workforce.

For 5 years I've admired my CEO for his tremendous skills in operational management and strategic acquisitions. He is exceptionally well qualified for the role, with one obvious exception. The People Factor. His ethical violations show his arrogance and lack of respect for others. His $40m+ bonuses during times of layoff show his lack of compassion for others. He has shifted the compensation from rank and file to senior executives dramatically, and seen loyalty and employee satisfaction plummet under his leadership.

I remember hearing the stories of former HP CEO Lou Platt flying in economy class and eating in the cafeteria. He was a legend for his personable style and support of a happy workforce, which he saw as a crucial ingredient to growth through delighting customers. Loyalty in those days was renowned, and HP was on all Best-Place-To-Work lists. Times have changed since Lou’s days, and the American worker has to accept adjustments to globalisation. But we do not have to accept adjustments to our fundamental values of respect and integrity.

Our challenge is to find a CEO who can balance both profits and people, a person willing to embrace the balanced values of the HP Way:

We have trust and respect for individuals.
We focus on a high level of achievement and contribution.
We conduct our business with uncompromising integrity.
We achieve our common objectives through teamwork.
We encourage flexibility and innovation.

Hewlett-Packard CEO Mark Hurd (Justin Sullivan/Getty Images)

new friends

2010-07-27T02:12:00.007+08:00

Despite the seriousness and pain of this landslide crisis, some good has come from it. In my case, it's the new friends I've met, whom I deeply respect and care about. I love to read their opinions, contemplate their perspective, and interact and find common ground. Humour is difficult - it's very hard to understand when the other is joking, and why it's funny! I've found it's best to stay sincere. This is hard given how much I love to joke and laugh!

I think my favorites already know who they are :-) Mostly young men and women, searching for a way to do the best thing for themselves and their families. Intermingled with posts on drowning homes and families in tents, are posts of Bollywood songs and Youtube jokes, showing that all of us need a break from serious subjects sometimes. An incredible bonus is the pictures by the hundreds of the spectacular landscape that shapes their world. My love for this region endures.

Photo credit: unknown

Families Facing the Flood - We Can Help

2010-05-29T05:29:00.002+08:00

FOCUS Humanitarian Assistance:
In Canada: www.canadahelps.org
In USA: www.justgive.org

Central Asia Institute (aka Three Cups of Tea):
www.ikat.org

Thanks to Pamir Times for permission to use their photos.
Thanks to Peter Gabriel and Robert Fripp for their kind understanding in using their beautiful song.

I am a concerned tourist with no affiliation to FOCUS or CAI.
Thank you for your support of these peaceful people in their time of need.

worried scared upset angry

2010-05-23T16:06:00.008+08:00

I can't remember a time I've been so worried. Any day now, including today, the lake water could reach the spillpoint in Gojal. According to dave's landslide blog, once the water starts pouring down the other side of the dam, erosion will most likely start within hours and there's a significant risk the dam could give way before long. The hope is for slow erosion. I'm so scared for the people downstream. What loss of property - and even life - will result? Few people have the money to replace land, home, and livestock. The good people of Gojal are already facing this terrible reality, and now many more may join them.

What's got me upset is not knowing what's going on. We've come to expect regular updates from Pamir Times, but besides a few articles that recap the latest blather from govt officials, there's nothing. No reports indicating the status of the water. No reports that let us know Noor and Zulfi are safe. Where are they? I presume they're onsite, investigating, and unable to upload at the moment, but I'm going spare with this silence. Add to this the Pakistan Facebook ban (unbelievable timing!) and what appears to be a ban on YouTube as well, and there's truly no news coming across from the sources I've relied upon.

I am so angry about this whole situation. From the very beginning, there's been so much talk, talk, talk with no action! I cannot grasp the irresponsibility of the leadership. I applaud the NGO FOCUS and some of the local GB leaders for doing what they can, but the federal authorities have been truly negligent. Pakistan's mainstream media has been cowardly in their reluctance to point out this negligence, and most international reports have simply been rehashes of official government statements, such as this nonsense in the New York Times, which misleads the reader into thinking all is under control.

Today, in a striking statement of incomprehensible ignorance, Pakistan's major English newspaper Dawn reported that "Nobody except few experts anticipated that the disaster of January 4th, 2010 would turn Gojal valley into a water bomb." Oh really, nobody? Except for me (a simple tourist), my friends (people with brains), and the local population (also people with brains). That Dawn could make such an insulting and false statement shows how much the rest of the country is catching up and finally realizing the gravity of the situation.

The next day or two will try my patience as it's rarely been tried before, but this is nothing to the worry that must be gripping the people whose livelihoods are at stake. I send every good thought their way and wish for the slowest possible erosion of the dam. These are kind and generous people. They do not deserve this. I look forward to a day when this is history, when pain and fear are replaced with spirited music and joyful dancing.

Photo: Standing in the spillway, looking down at the approaching lake. (Photo by Zulfiqar Ali Khan, Pamir Times)

Karakorum Kindness

2010-03-26T12:11:00.004+08:00

Once in 1992, when Erik and I went hiking in Gojal in the north of Pakistan, we underestimated the size of the Karakorum mountains and found ourselves dangerously dehydrated and suffering from sunburn. Our lips cracked and our minds played tricks. We looked for help but found no one. We were scared and lost, and after some time we began to despair.

To our great relief, a village woman came upon us and guided us to the home of a local English-speaking schoolmaster in Husseini. Without saying a word, she guided us across the footbridge and held our hands as we stumbled up the steep bank to his home. The schoolmaster and his family kindly took us in and attended to us for many hours. As we sipped his tea and ate his bread, we gradually returned to health and good spirits. Soon, we were talking and laughing and sharing stories. I watched as his beautiful young daughters peaked at us from behind the kitchen curtain, and giggled with them when I caught them looking! The schoolmaster shared the wonderful philosophies of the Aga Khan. We listened, shared our own observations, and debated politics and social norms. When finally we were well enough to return to our lodgings several miles away in Passu, the family arranged for our safe transport.

I have never forgotten that act of kindness, and the many other acts of generosity we experienced on our two memorable trips to northern Pakistan. Husseini was not the only time the people of this region helped us out of a difficult situation, yet it was the first, and remains my most vivid memory of the quality of the people of Gojal and Gilgit-Balitistan.

The January 4th landslide that blocked the river has left 25,000 people cut off from their neighbors. For all I know, that schoolmaster's home could be submerged under the newly formed lake now. It is for this reason that I must act.

Last Day in Singapore - Haiku

2010-03-13T11:59:00.003+08:00

Drums beat at temple
Men "talk cock" at coffee shop
Young girls shop till drop

Gojal needs our help

2010-03-07T11:36:00.005+08:00

A massive landslide has dammed the Hunza river, swallowing villages and fields. In coming weeks, the lake will reach its spillpoint, which threatens devastating floods to downstream villages. There is desperate need for support. I can coordinate for anyone willing to help. Contact me via FB or this blog. Strength to my friends in northern Pakistan...

Here's what it looks like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biHeMtKIEPw

There is no int'l news coverage of the crisis, so locals are getting the story out using blogs, youtube, FB, twitter:
http://pamirtimes.net/2010/03/04/gojal-valley-our-homeland-submerging-every-hour

Photo by Pamir Times

How Americans see the world

2010-03-03T09:22:00.001+08:00

This will be one of the hard things about going back to America:

Found this here: http://blog.outdoorzy.com/2007/02/09/the-world-through-american-eyes/

Cool collage capability from Picasa

2010-01-16T00:19:00.001+08:00

Beautiful Burma

2009-11-14T15:25:00.001+08:00

german notes

2009-11-07T01:01:00.005+08:00

- best wholegrain bread ever tasted
- 20 euros for a 15 min taxi ride
- duvet covers wide but short, feet stick out!
- food products were german, not many foreign brands
- bottled water comes in tiny glass bottles, usually sparkling seltzer. always thirsty!
- beef comes well done, even if you ask for medium rare
- beautiful farmland along the Rhine, charming villages straight from the fairy tales
- wonderful Wiesbaden!
- friendly and welcoming

Professional Instruction with a Passion

2009-09-26T21:49:00.002+08:00

By now anyone who knows me knows drumming is my passion. And this passion is contagious, transferred from instructor to student. We are fortunate in Singapore for the opportunity to learn from Kelvin Kew, founder of Lila Drums and Director of the Singapore branch of Tam Tam Mandingue, the preeminent international school of West African drumming. A classically trained musician and percussion graduate of Los Angeles Music Academy, Kelvin has also studied drumming in West Africa as a student of Mamady Keita, the world-renowned drumming Grand Master.

Kelvin’s passion for this art form shines through in everything he does, from his own technical proficiency to the dedication he shows his students. In addition to regular classes, he continually offers new experiences, such as jam sessions, half-day workshops, and student performances. Twice he has brought Mamady Keita to Singapore for the benefit of his students, a rare treat in Asia. He’s even organized an overnight “drum camp” on Pulau Ubin! Learning from Kelvin is a joy, especially when we get to hear him play solo, such as in this video of the piece “Makru.” Thank you Kelvin!

time to admit it, Facebook is my new blog

2009-08-29T09:41:00.001+08:00

I'll still write articles here, but my day to day blogging is all on Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/cherylcarruth

The Adventure Next Door

2009-06-01T22:20:00.003+08:00

You’ve got a holiday break coming up, and the energy to see something new. You might have friends who’ve seen orangutans in Borneo, and bragged about their rough trek up Mount Kinabalu, but chances are good they’ve never stepped foot on a much closer island neighbor that’s equally as spectacular: the Indonesian giant of Sumatra, the worlds 6th largest island.

Sumatra is 1100 miles long, the distance from New York City to Miami, with enormous cultural and natural variety that rewards the curious. From Singapore, regular flights make the island accessible around centers such as Medan and Padang. A good starting destination is the stunning Lake Toba in the north, where five days is just nice for a restful retreat. It’s also worthwhile to spend a couple of days at the nature reserve at Bukit Lawang for a glimpse of the endangered Sumatran Orangutan.

For as little as $100, it’s a quick one-hour flight to Medan, where you can hop a taxi for the half-day journey to either the nature reserve to the north, or Lake Toba to the west.

At Lake Toba, a gentle ferry shuttles visitors to the tourist center of Tuk Tuk on Samosir island, in the center of the lake. Here, midrange and budget accomodation line the lake, some with excellent swimming and panoramic views. Restaurants dot the town, offering western fare and Indonesian specialties. Days are spent renting bikes, attending cooking classes, hiking, or chilling at the lakeside. At night, visitors can enjoy traditional Batak dance and music. The pace is slow. Simple pleasures take hold.

“But isn’t it dangerous there?” I heard this question a surprising number of times on my return to Singapore. Simply put: I felt safe and comfortable at all times. The uneasy peace further north in Aceh province is far away, 400 miles to the northern tip of Sumatra, 15 hours by car. The gentle Batak culture around Toba Lake creates a warm atmostphere and laidback feel that charms the visitor.

I like to blend holidays with a mix of relaxation and active exploration. A great way to add spice is to rent motorbikes for a scenic tour of Samosir island’s open roads. Get out into the glorious countryside, wave at the kids, and smell the fresh air. Rice paddies glow neon green and yellow in the sun. Batak houses sport boat-shaped rooves that defy standard architecture. Smiles are given freely.

Active exploration is exactly what you get in Bukit Lawang, a day’s journey from Toba. We sighted 4 adult orangutans and 1 baby on our 3 hour hike through the forest, followed by an exhilarating rafting trip back to town. No special gear was necessary. Getting a great guide is part of the joy of a trip like this, and Bukit Lawang has no shortage of super-friendly, lovable characters. Ours even met up with us at night for some soulful singing with guitar and drums. Those guys sure could belt out a tune!

Connecting with people comes easily to some travelers, while others fumble with the first steps. The effort is worth the reward. That little smile from a child can make your day. A thumbs-up and smiles from two waving teenagers is great fun.

Here are 3 ways to get started:
1. Smile broadly and make eye contact: hold that eye contact long enough so the person can be sure you’re really looking at them as a person, not just as part of the scenery. That’s the moment when they will break out into a radiant smile. Sometimes it doesn’t happen, or a frown remains, but don’t get discouraged. Another day-making smile is right around the corner.

2. Learn 3 basic words: hello, thank you, and a third one of your choice. Good options are beautiful, child, delicious, or how are you?

3. Become a customer, act like a guest: frequent the same restaurants and shops often. Learn the name of your waiter, shopkeeper, and driver. Introduce yourself and family, shake hands warmly. When passing by, consider making short stops for a quick chat, a cup of tea, and to ask how things are going today? Even when hurrying past, it’s fun to wave and say hi. This is a proven way to shift from tourist to friendly neighbor.

Sumatra offers the traveler many rewarding opportunities to practice connecting with people. And it’s the people, natural beauty, and relaxing atmosphere that will bring me back. This is the kind of place that has you coming home and researching your next trip immediately… Bukittinggi anyone? Nias?

Cooking Class

2009-05-24T20:56:00.008+08:00

Heddy, our teacher, came well prepared to her kitchen classroom, perched on a hilltop overlooking Lake Toba in Sumatra.

First task, shave the coconut meat from the shell. Coconut is used in many Indonesian dishes.

Toast the coconut over high heat.

This is the secret to the classic rich curry called rendang. Pound the toasted coconut until the oil releases and it turns to a dark paste.

Erik smashes chillies and tomatoes for the fish course.

The feast: chicken rendang, sayur lodeh (a veg curry), and fish sambal laduh

The reward is enjoying the meal together

A great view

A good teacher

Banana fritters for dessert

Aamir

2009-05-03T20:57:00.005+08:00

Aamir Khan
Versatile, intelligent entertainer
Best films: Rang de Basanti, Lagaan
Not bad to look at, either ;)

Phuket Fever

2009-04-19T16:03:00.005+08:00

Sometimes holidays just don't work out like you want them to. We were really looking forward to our long weekend in Phuket. But fate had something else in store. Slammed by the flu the night before we left, we spent a large part of our stay shivering under blankets in our hotel room.

But we were determined to enjoy ourselves! Every day we made sure to do something to get us out of that room, even if it was just a meal across the street from our hotel. A few days we even made it to the beach. And what a lovely beach Kata is!

Our room had access to a pool right off the balcony, a very cool concept. So that made for a pleasant view.

I guess when life hands you a lemon, you really can make lemonade most of the time. It wasn't our best vacation, but we still found ways to enjoy it. Hoping for better luck next time!

Paradise prayer

2009-03-09T22:31:00.002+08:00

Dreaming of my lovely Karakorum views... As I read the bad news coming out of this special country, all I can wish for is peace. Please, peace. There are too many beautiful people in Pakistan that need no more hardship. Please, peace.

Everyone has a story

2009-02-01T14:27:00.012+08:00

Studs Terkel wrote people's stories. He listened, saw drama and comedy, and captured vignettes of many lives over his long career. I was reminded about this over the past week, while staying at a lovely beach town in South India. I noticed how everyone there had a story of their own.

Mr Basheer has filled his cliff-side shop with hand-picked items from his faraway homeland of Kashmir. His days are long, working morning till night to entice tourists to enter his well-ordered room filled with custom jewelry. His mature sales style indicates he's learned how to strike the right balance with foreign customers - just the right amount of push without going too far. During rainy season in the south, Basheer gets a few months back home with his family, travelling from the most southern tip of India to the furthest northern reaches, a distance of over 2,300 miles. In those brief months, home is real and the magic of Kashmir is his to enjoy.

Lobo is an enterprising young man from Periyar, the spice capital of Kerala. Yet the competition of so many spice shops chasing so few tourist footsteps drove him to relocate to a more unique location with the hope of higher financial returns. His wife and children remain home, while he pays nearly US$500 per month to rent his attractive cliff-side spice shop. It's a sizeable risk. He will need at least 2 people per day to spend as much as we did (US$10) to cover his costs. But Lobo knows the business and has a good chance of success. His immaculate shop is in a prime location and fronted by a welcoming garden. His markups are high, but still reasonable for the tourists. He's expanded into the ayurvedics and specialty teas that are popular with the long-staying Yoga crowd. Most of all, his personal warmth and sincerity engender trust and goodwill with his customers.

Buying T-shirts doesn't need to involve much personal interaction, unless you're in India! The kindness and charm of this delightful family from Karnataka made shopping a joy. I was impressed with the gentle manner of this hard-working mother, and the warmth she and her children showed to us.

We took some drums and the new rhythm toys we got for Christmas. Although the fellow from Africa House had left India, we didn't let that stop us from forming our own drum circle. At the hotel, we handed out drums, bells, woods, and shakers. Soon, the individual talents of our hotel staff came pouring out. Special mention goes to our restaurant man and one of the housekeeping guys - these guys could really drum. Jaison and John tried the bell and shakers, and the General Manager wasn't bad either. He asked me if I'd been to Pakistan, and were there good people there? Three months in Pakistan, I answered. And yes, the people there are good, just like the people in India. After all, I ventured to risk, "you're brothers." His face was indescribable! Part smile, part defiance. He quickly laughed to ease the tension I'd introduced. We drummed on.

Tourists had stories too. Kate, the American embroidery artist, was a Buffalo native living in London with annual trips to India and a wealth of knowledge on Kerala. Nicholas, a Devon native, had been surfing this beach for over 20 days, and kept us immensely entertained with his stories of playing an English colonial officer in the upcoming Malayalam film "Palasi Raja." We'll look for him on the DVD.

In hearing their stories, we naturally look to our own. On this occasion, our story was simply one of enjoying so many encounters with such fine people. As with Sri Lanka and Pakistan, in India we can talk with strangers, make friends, and laugh. The common language helps, yes, but there is more. There is openness and willingness to take a chance and connect, plus all those intangible qualities that make the subcontinent my favorite travel destination on earth.

R&R at last

2009-01-15T19:50:00.015+08:00

After a rough planning season at work this fall, we finally got some R&R over the past few months with a short trip to Krabi with drumming friends, a longer trip to Vietnam with Boise friends, and a fabulous Christmas break in Florida & Colorado.

But before any of that, we had a visit in early July from our dear friend Mark, who left the comfort of Perth to stay with us old folks in Singy. Mark was our house mate back in Jakarta in 1996, when the rupiah was worth 2500 to the dollar and Suharto ruled in front, not behind. Horacio knew just where to take us all for a great night out, although Mark's partying skills left us reeling and in great need of recuperation! Of course, we didn't want to be outdone by an Aussie, but alas, we're old.

Work was hell for 3 months and that's all I'll say about that. But finally, our first break came and our drumming buddies accompanied us to our fave Thailand destination. They taught us that you CAN bring 5 drums and a bag of noise-making goodies on a plane without a problem. Those noise-makers came in very handy at the bars where we played. Thanks to Gordon, we got invited to the likes of the Smile bar, where guests and bartenders alike enjoyed shaking the maracas and grooving with the cowbell while we played our djembes.

Only a few weeks later, we were met by the sweetest couple in Boise, Idaho - our friends Anne & Joel. They flew 25 hours to see southeast asia and get a taste of living abroad somewhere besides Italy, their previous expat home. They could handle tame Singapore on their own, and we gave them a few tips in Vietnam, and they quickly proved what quick studies they were by using their new bag of tricks at Angkor Wat. I was so proud! They were terrific traveling companions - easy going, fun, and curious.

At Christmas it was our turn to do the long flights. I've got to hand it to United, this year they did a good job with service, despite mechanicals problems on the way home that caused our 32 hr journey to stretch to 48. By that time, we were so relaxed from our two blissful weeks, we just rolled with the punches.

Mom and Dad have hit paydirt with their fabulous new home in Venice on the Gulf Coast of Florida. It's caribbean-beautiful on the Gulf! They even took us to a drum circle on the beach, followed by the most intense display of Christmas lights ever designed by men with too much time on their hands. But the best treat was hanging out and watching the birds fly in to their pond every late afternoon. First the egrets would come, then the ducks, then the sandhill cranes... it was spectacular. M&D were so welcoming. I could have stayed there for months, just laughing away and doing puzzles.

Tajik teahouse in the Rocky Mountains? Yes! Boulder has the real thing. In Colorado, we had another warm welcome from Erik's family. Gordon and Thea reminded us just how special Denver is. There are great views and plentiful trails, first-rate shopping and innovative restaurants, and live music to top it all off. Amongst the charming neighborhoods of Denver and Boulder, we saw the life we left behind 3 years ago. We saw big skies, and lovely back yards, and organic whole grain what-have-you, and we have to say, it's a good life there.

Yet somehow, Singapore has become home, and arriving back to our little condo and watching the bicycles and temple parades go by was just as pleasurable as any other part of the trip. As we lugged our 150 lbs of luggage back through the front door, we sighed with relief that we had finally arrived after that arduous 48 hr journey.

At last, we are relaxed and ready to face the new year. But what's this? Another New Year? Yes! Chinese New Year is right around the corner, the last week of January. So off we'll go again, this time to South India, to spend another few relaxing days in our adopted continent. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and Gong Xi Fa Cai to all!

Marhaba Mohammad

2008-11-30T12:54:00.001+08:00

Now here's a funny thing. On Friday morning, we received an email informing us a tin of delicious arab sweets were on their way from Doha to Singapore, and by Saturday morning, we were consuming these treats with wild abandon! What a small world...

Mohammad, what a great surprise! These babies are fresh and moist, with just the right amount of honey-sweetness and nutty-goodness. I see you've been making good use of your time in Doha.

Thanks so much for this special treat! And many thanks to Greg and Chris, the cheerful delivery men!

Blu Jaz rocks with African beat

2008-08-23T13:27:00.001+08:00

Find more photos like this on Drum Stuff

Gold Medal for Starhub's Olympic coverage

2008-08-21T20:29:00.003+08:00

Imagine this:

- 6 new cable channels opened up to show all-day olympic coverage for two weeks, with no disruption to regular programming

- olympics with no advertising!

- coverage of sports not seen in the US (ie, where no Americans are competing). Hammer throw, weightlifting, archery... who knew how exciting these sports could be?

- no sappy backstory or over-dramatized documentary clips ("bambi jane was born in a car in texas, and against great odds made it here today...")

- full coverage of heats and semi-finals, not just the final seconds of a gold medalist's performance.

- low key commentary from unbiased experts

- just sport! sport, sport, and more sport! I am loving this

Ghost Story

2008-07-27T09:17:00.005+08:00

It's hungry ghost month. That's when the ghosts of the chinese ancestors come up to roam the earth, and those who still believe burn ghost money (and ghost cars, houses, tv's and other goodies) as offerings to the ancestors. Old World Culture - that's what some of my chinese friends call it.

There are lots of big tents set up around the HDB areas, with chairs facing a song stage on one end and a little chinese opera stage on the other. Pretty girls prance around and sing (badly) on the song stage. Bombastic opera performances are enjoyed at the other end. There's a lot of smoke! (I borrowed this photo from Flickr to show what it looks like.) I rarely saw this when we lived on River Valley Rd. But now that we're near Tiong Bahru, there's a tent setup just down the street. The wailing sounds are incredible! This is a fun festival, and it's great to see so many people out at night in the neighborhood, having a good time.

weekend in Phnom Penh

2008-07-13T12:34:00.015+08:00

With Erik's birthday around the corner, I wanted to find a way to celebrate that was not your ordinary dinner out. The answer came in a flash - hop over to the capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh, for a 3 day mini-break. Phnom Penh is fewer than 2 hours flight from Singapore, and there's plenty to see and do.

First impression: dirt roads, rubbish and open sewers, pollution, crumbling French colonial buildings
Second impression: motorbikes, growth, smiles, opportunity, pollution, renovated French colonial buildings

I saw the city as a cross between Saigon and Yangon (aka HCMC and Rangoon). Both Phnom Penh and Yangon have more humanitarian aid agencies and NGO Land Cruisers than I've ever seen anywhere else. Yet while Phnom Penh never reached the size and grandeur of Yangon, Burma's capital crumbles and declines while Cambodia's capital grows with an optimism similar to that found in its neighbor, Saigon. I have no doubt Phnom Penh will exceed Yangon's once greatness if things continue as they are today.

Our adventures were tame - perhaps the most exciting event was a British scam artist begging us for 5 bucks! Tuk-tuk drivers were assertive but not pushy, and they were quick to laugh and have fun.

Food was fantastic everywhere we went... why? Our hotel had the best croissants I've had in Asia, including the upscale French hotels we stayed at in Bali. Cambodian food was tasty too, especially the ubiquitous "Amok Fish" with its soothing coconut milk sauce. I'd go back just for the food.

We checked out lots of neighborhoods. Our area was a quiet part of town near embassies and expats, which explains why our hotel pool was filled with active kids. I liked the backpacker area on the lake - a great place to chill. The riverfront is more upscale, but because they're renovating the corniche, it wasn't a great place to be at this time.

Our first day we took in the sobering Genocide Museum, and it really did put things into perspective. The entire city was emptied into a ghost town in the mid-1970s. Thirty years later, it's hard to imagine the city not bustling as it does today.

A highlight was the National Museum with its many statues brought down from Angkor Wat and surrounds. My favorite site was the Grand Palace and National Wat, which were very similar to those in Bangkok, except where Thailand used gold leaf, Cambodia had only gold paint. Still, so lovely.

Phnom Penh as a tourist destination may not top too many lists, but it was well worth the journey. It makes for a special long weekend, perfect for celebrating the life of a very special man.

Bangkok in pictures

2008-07-13T11:57:00.011+08:00

We left no stone unturned! Sight-seeing was the name of the game up in Bangkok with Erik's mom, Linda. If you've ever been to Bangkok, you know the routine - Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun, river taxis, and more. But as usual, it was those unexpected out-of-the-way experiences that made the trip so special.

For example, this photo was definitely worth 40 Baht!

Linda was game for anything. She was so easy to travel with. Erik and I had always wanted to go north of Bangkok to see the famous ruins at Ayutthaya, and we found out we could do it cheaply and flexibly by taking the 3rd class commuter train up to the town. Just a two hour journey and through some pretty countryside. Linda was up for it. What a payoff! The ruins were breathtaking - you could just picture the Siam kingdom in its heyday, before the Burmese sacked the city and they were forced south towards Bangkok. Buddhas were everywhere...

For me, the highlight of the entire trip was up in Ayutthaya, when Linda crossed the street near the train station by herself, bought a fresh chicken satay from a street stall for 5 Baht, and tucked in without giving it a second thought. She said it was the best satay of the trip - better than the 5 star hotels! I was so proud! To top it off, she was game to delve into a luscious, creamy durian with me and Erik. Is she a natural or what?

But gosh it was hot on that train!

A perfect day

2008-06-08T11:14:00.005+08:00

It started at 6:20am. Not a time I'm known to stir.

After a quick shower, we pulled out our daypack. Sunglasses, check. Bathing suits, check. Sarongs, check. Out the door.

At precisely 7:30am we arrived at Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal. Andrea and Brian had, of course, been there since time began. They are always maddeningly early.

With not a moment to spare, we boarded the 8am ferry to Bintan, an Indonesian resort island just an hour southeast of Singapore. I was nervous about the sea journey. My previous episode on this ferry found me and a hundred other holidaymakers barfing into blue bags while compassionate employees expertly dispensed new ones while whisking away the old. I did not wish for a repeat performance.

Around the time my tummy started feeling a tad uncomfortable, I noticed the onboard cafe had chosen the unfortunate name of the "BRF Cafe"... now I ask you, is that any name for the cafe on a boat?

Thankfully, we all made it to Bintan without incident, and when we arrived at the beautiful Bintan Lagoon Resort, the day really began. We quickly headed down to the beach to grab our spot in the shade, then dove into the clean, warm ocean bath. Despite the overcast day, the colors of blue and green danced in the water throughout the day. We swam, lunched at the delicious buffet, napped by the pool, swam some more, talked, laughed, and generally delighted in our gorgeous surroundings all day long.

8pm came much too soon, and we headed back for Singapore with light hearts and full stomachs. To top off the day, we found some favorite Indonesian foodstuffs at the Bintan ferry terminal - casava chips, kerupuk, Indomie, and spiced cashews. A smooth trip home, a quick taxi, a little internet surfing, and we hit the sack at midnight, exhausted after a truly perfect day.

Singapore finds a new fan

2008-06-01T12:43:00.023+08:00

We thought we knew Singapore. Little did we know.

It took a visit from Linda, Erik's mom, to show us just how much more there was to see. We finally saw the Night Safari (cool bats), and the lovely little aquarium on Sentosa. The Chinatown Heritage Center was a pleasant surprise. It showed an amazing re-make of the cubicle-sized living quarters of new immigrants to Singapore. How could a whole family live in such a small room? They showed us, and it was enough to make you count your blessings.

Thanks to Jenn & Joey's blog, Linda was keen (or rather her chemistry students back in New Jersey were keen) to try FISH REFLEXOLOGY. Oh...my...god. When your feet hit that water, those little guys positively swarm at the feast, nibbling in between toes, tickling the soles of your feet, it's bizarre! But afterward, what a feeling! Skin as smooth as a baby's bottom.

Sure, we made the usual stops at Little India, the Quays, Raffles, and the Merlion, but we also checked out the Beo Crescent wet market and the Toa Payoh town center, to see how the real Singaporean lives.

We circled the island on the Red Line train, took in a busy Buddhist temple on Buddha's birthday, tucked into yummy delights at Red Star Dim Sum and tasted pork rib tea at the famous Ya Hua eating house. We didn't want Linda to get just a tourist impression...

A major highlight was riding the newly opened Singapore Flyer. The views are incredible. I can't believe how many ships go through the port on any given day. We went early on a weekday, and had a whole car to ourselves. This experience is well worth it.

After four busy days in Singy, we embarked on our Bangkok adventure. (That's the subject for another entry.) Thanks to Linda's enthusiasm and willingness to take on Singapore with gusto, Erik and I were shown just how much more we can explore this wonderful country!

Favorite Singapore Pics

2008-05-10T15:35:00.000+08:00

time to split!

2008-05-03T22:53:00.003+08:00

I've never seen taxi drivers move so fast! the coffee shop manager yelled out a loud warning call, and we saw 5 of them split so fast toward their cars it made our heads spin around. they drove out fast, and next thing we saw was a uniformed man with a loud walkie talkie looking around the coffee shop with a suspicious eye. what was this all about? whatever it was, it was a laugh! it reminds us what a singaporean friend once told us: in singapore, it's not about following the rules, it's about not getting caught!

This is a sample photo, not where we were tonight!

Junk Boat Bliss

2008-04-12T15:15:00.004+08:00

It's moments like these when I love Singapore best!

The Joy of Asia

2008-04-12T15:08:00.003+08:00

I'm so lucky to experience the joys Asia has to offer. Here my brother has captured a thrilling moment on our visit to Angkor Wat.

My Dad

2008-04-05T13:59:00.006+08:00

This week was my dad's birthday, so I thought about him even more than usual. The hardest thing about living in Singapore is not getting to see my dad as much as I'd like to.

My dad is not your ordinary guy. He's a high achiever and a goal setter; a role model for how to make things happen your own way and get what you want out of life.

When he met my mom, he knew she was the kind of smart and capable woman he wanted by his side, and he figured out how to woo this special lady into his life.

When he decided to go to Cornell, he persuaded the faculty that a smalltown boy could make them proud and convinced them to take the risk of accepting him.

When he saw the beauty of Keuka Lake in New York State, he figured out how he could make a good living in such a rural area and raise his family in one of the most beautiful spots in North America.

When the local vineyard industry took a turn for the worse, he figured out how to move his assets elsewhere and maintain his standard of living without sacrificing his family time or moving us from the area.

And on it goes, with more examples than I can name about he’s made his own way in this world with his wits and the good people with whom he has surrounded himself.

Today my dad enjoys a comfortable retirement between New York State and Florida. He’s added golf to his list of activities, and as he did years ago with sailing and flying small aircraft, he’s pursued the hobby with gusto and carefully honed his skill. He enjoys time with other snowbirds and frequent visits from family.

What I miss most is the enjoyable conversations we have when I come to visit. The light debate, the teasing and jokes, the appreciation of the beauty of our surroundings, and the sincere expression of love we each give to the other. This week, on my dad’s birthday, I hope that he can feel the love I feel for him, how thankful I am that I know this fine man, and how much I miss seeing him.

Sri Lanka and strong dollars

2008-03-06T20:18:00.008+08:00

First, let's get some nice pics up here from our amazing trip to Sri Lanka, home of lovely people and stunning natural beauty. On this top photo, that's our hotel nestled in the hills in the center of the picture. Here's an excerpt from my tripadvisor.com review of our hotel near Kandy - for the full thing see the link in the sidebar.

"Never has a hotel made me feel so welcome. We were treated as special guests and even as friends. Our perfect 5 night stay at Hunas is among the top hotel experiences of my lifetime. We came for the nature, but it was the kind and caring people working at this lovely hotel that made our trip so special."

Well done Hunas Falls Resort! It was such a pleasure to be surrounded by mountains, with nothing to do all day but hike and read and enjoy the scenery.

Back in Singapore, work has taken on new heights of busy-ness, as almost every major assignment of the year is due in the months of March and April. So what do we need to do during this time? Why, move house, of course! But that's ok, everything always works out, especially when there's good people to work with.

So move house we must, as our lease has expired and the owners want nearly double the rent to renew. (yup, the Singapore market is really that hot) So instead, Erik and I have decided to forego the pleasures of Aspen Heights Condo, truly lovely as it is.

We also say goodbye to our new neighbors with their pair of barking beagles, the screaming children playing daily just outside our door, and the musical sound of jackhammers at the nearby construction site. Instead, we've found a delightful small condo just north of our favorite neighborhood of tiong bahru, and we couldn't be more excited to get there! It's within walking distance of many of our favorite local food centers and very near to the canal where we go walking. It's also just a few blocks from Great World City (yes, I named my blog after my fave shopping mall in the city, I admit it! how Singaporean lah!)

And why the remark on strong dollars? Because when the workload gets you down, the strengthening Sing dollar is there to pick you back up again! Thank goodness for local currency salaries. The Sing dollar is now 17% stronger than when we moved here, vs the USD. It's like getting a raise every month. And given the skyrocketing cost of living in this city, that's worth celebrating!

2007 Family Christmas

2008-01-25T23:42:00.000+08:00

There's nothing like the fun and laughter of our family at Christmas. Here's what that looks like, enjoy. Thanks to Billy for the great song.

traveling in style on United trans-pacific

2008-01-06T22:55:00.000+08:00

So satisfying... I could almost make out a hint of vegetable and protein. This was served midway through our 15 hour trans-pacific flight. Every four hours or so they'd even come by with a cup of water. Now that's service.

United pulled out all the stops this holiday season, bringing forth all their very best features into one unforgettable experience: delayed luggage (does Rochester sound like Omaha?), broken video screens, broken audio, broken seats, hours of water-free flying enjoyment, cup'o'soup, flight attendants sporting their famous snide attitudes, and the icing on the cake - refusing to give us boarding passes with our final destination printed on the ticket.

This last feature was especially fun. Our return tickets said the final destination was Hong Kong, not Singapore. Our demands to get reissued tickets failed, and the gate agents in both Rochester and Chicago confirmed the ticket would take us through to Singapore. Not surprisingly, we were refused in Hong Kong. Thankfully, the HK United staff handled the situation professionally and intelligently. Considering the hassle, they appropriately upgraded us to business and issued us the correct boarding passes. Thanks to their help (and luckily a 3 hour layover), we arrived in Singapore as scheduled.

Bravo United. 50 hours with you is enough for a lifetime.

A great time had by all!

2007-12-08T15:19:00.000+08:00

Cambodia, Thailand, and Singapore. So exotic! After a few eye-opening days in Singapore (Raffles, Sentosa, Orchard Rd - oh my!), my family headed out to Cambodia to experience a much more typical example of Southeast Asia.

The temples of the Angkor Wat complex were as dramatic and stunning as we expected, and the boat ride to the stilt villages on Lake Tonle Sap provided us with a special glimpse into the everyday lives of the people of Cambodia. We waved at friendly kids and hard-working women, and saw a fight between several men in the village, in which one pulled a cleaver on the other before the villagers pulled him back. That was certainly not as we expected!

The day on Lake Tonle Sap was my favorite day, because it gave us the most chance to interact with everyday Cambodians. The highlight was a lovely canoe ride, as shown here in video.

We split up after Cambodia, with Mom and I off to Phuket, Aaron and Glenn to Bangkok, and Erik back to work in Singapore. In Phuket, Mom and I simply drifted from ocean to pool to ocean to pool all day at our luxurious hotel on Pansea beach. We enjoyed letting our conversation drift too, taking any direction we felt like with no rush. That was the biggest luxury of all.

I found it especially difficult to concentrate on work the first full week back in Singapore. My mind was with my family, and I'd been badly bitten by the travel bug. The only cure, as many of you know, is to plan more trips! And that's exactly what we've done. As for the fam, I'm so glad I'll be seeing them soon at Christmas. That helps take the sting out of saying goodbye.

Countdown to the BIG visit!

2007-10-27T17:12:00.000+08:00

Mom, Aaron, and Glenn are coming in ONE WEEK! This is the big news in my world. We're getting ready, too. The big question is, with only 3 days in Singy, how to take them to all my fave sightseeing and eating places? It's just not possible.

However, these eating places are MUSTS:

- Aburiyas (best beef ever)
- Warung M Nasir (beef rendang never tasted so good)
- Four Seasons brunch (you know you love it)
- Indian fare, probably Raj or Banana Leaf Apollo (although I love the roasted flavor of the Mysore masala dosas at a place across the street from Mostafa's)
- something in Tiong Bahru, my local food mecca

Lately I'm all over this blog by Travelling Hungryboy, and now that's opened up new possibilities. Tonight Erik and I are going to check out something at Cuppage that he recommends. The Japanese food around here is to die for. Although I dearly love Zutto's back home in Boise, I know that my understanding of just how good Japanese food can be is grossly underdeveloped. I MUST go to Japan!

That's all for now. My Facebook addiction is starting to cool down, so I'm coming back to blogger. Perhaps my next entry will be snaps of the great trip my family has together to Angkor and Phuket. Wow, me in Phuket, now that's a new thing. No backpacker crib there...

Meanwhile, some snaps of Japanese food finds in Singapore, to make you all jealous and drooling!

Still hooked

2007-10-14T00:50:00.001+08:00

No time for blogging... only time for Facebooking! See Facebook.com for the latest photo albums I've shared online, and don't hesitate to superpoke me with a hug, kiss, or even through the sheep my way!

Meanwhile, Erik is still deeply entrenched in Oblivion, the best video game I've ever seen. His character is an advanced warrior now, so he's moved on to mastering wizardry. And he has over 60 thousand gold pieces, wow, that would buy a lot of bling!

Big day for me in 10 days, and as Mom reminds me, a big day for her and dad too, because I'm the youngest!

Addicted to Facebook

2007-09-29T16:13:00.000+08:00

I am SO hooked. They call it a "social utility." Could have picked a better description, I think. It's better than blog. It's better than email. It's an all-in-one spot for blog/email/youtube/music/photos/movies/social groups and more. And it's all within easy reach of your friends for comparisons, sharing, and discussion. It's the new internet!

I'm hoping many email pals will join, since chances are much better we'll stay well-connected once we're on this thing together. Aside from the social aspect, my favorite thing is how simple the little apps are, and how easily you can add them or delete them. I'm currently hooked on the Travel IQ quiz and the Harry Potter quiz, which I play in between sending people drinks and writing on their walls.

Perhaps my enthusiasm will cool down soon and I'll come up for air, but right now I'm just blown away.

http://www.facebook.com/

My first Youtube upload!

2007-09-15T18:18:00.000+08:00

You can see a clip from our Karaoke party on YouTube. We're singing a few lines from La Bamba and it's lots of fun! Our drum class met there recently to say good-bye to Choon, who's moving to the UK to start her own adventure abroad. She's the lovely Chinese woman sitting next to me. She's been a steady member of the class since before we arrived in Singapore and we'll all miss her. She added a lot of fun and personality to our class, as you can see here.

Moving on is never easy - memories of a great team

2007-07-28T13:19:00.000+08:00

I'm taking a new job with my office in Singapore, and although I'm excited for a new challenge, I'm sure going to miss the great people I work with now. It's not like I won't see them - I'll only be a few aisles down from my old team - but it won't be the same as having the day to day interaction we share now. So here's a little trip down memory lane, just for me... people I love, who I will dearly miss working with... this isn't everyone, but this is who I had photos of.

Yih Fong... my guide to all things culturally confusing, the best cube-mate I could have asked for and a great friend.
Kai Tee... seen here relaxed and ready to debate, my favorite person to argue with :) Kai Tee has taught me more than anyone about how channel sales really works, and I've greatly enjoyed our partnership.
Charlene... laughing here with Yih Fong, so sharp and dependable and a joy to work with.

Janice Lau... the best admin I've ever worked with (really). Seen here in her natural pose - scolding me as usual! - probably because I asked her for something that costs about $5!
Jimmy... a superb product manager who's energetic, fun, and has a great understanding of people.
Katherine... this brave woman dared to take on Attach, and she's succeeding with gusto! Jo-san!
Ta Loong... a success story in the making: a strong sales manager and loving father with his priorities in the right place.
Kee Jen... wholesome and good-natured, and vigorously dedicated to what's best for the business!

Christy... our summer intern who reminds us how talented and capable the next generation will be.
Fern... dependable and so dedicated, how lucky we are!

Celine (left) and Janice (right). These two leaders are a powerful combo! Celine is a skilled and level-headed planning and ops expert. Janice ("boss") adds great fun to the office and often has us laughing our heads off! I owe her much thanks for showing faith in me and bringing me to Singapore.
Jun Seok and Jae Won from Korea, with me and Kai Tee (and my fave photo of Jun Seok, "selling" me biz ink)... we've had moments from furious to fun! I will carry fond memories of these guys.

And not to forget Shen, Yoke Eng, Hai Kim, Jin Sha, Siew Ping, Mun Ling, Yat Leng, Ivy, Margaret, Herbert, and the many other wonderful people from the countries and region.

This team is so bright, and so talented - it's been a privilege working with them. I'm just happy it's not really good-bye. I hope there's still room in the car for the occasional trip for bak kut teh!

Fruits of the Season

2007-07-28T12:44:00.000+08:00

Mangosteen, Durian, and Rambutan are all in season right now, so let's see what these exotic tasty morsels look like...

Mangosteen (top left) is my favorite. Sweet and tender morsels yield a burst of spicy juice when you pop it into your mouth.

Durian (top right), famed for its pungent smell, is creamy and delicate with a hint of sweetness when it's ripe and in season.

Rambutan ("hairy fruit" in Malay) is a lot like lychee - chewy and sweet and very satisfying. Andrea and I are holding one open for the camera.

Bon Appetit!

P.S. - for a truly eloquent description of the durian experience, see Jenn's blog

Cell phone, friends, and fruit

2007-07-23T21:58:00.000+08:00

Drum roll please! (Steph can do that...)

Ahem. I.. uh.. finally broke down. Bad land line finally did it. Yes, it's true... I bought a cell phone! (And a two year Starhub service contract.) I have joined the civilized world!

Please, nobody tell Ayon Banerjee! This dear ex-HP friend has been working for Nokia in India for the last few years, and he's been hounding me to join the SMS generation. I can't bear the humiliation, his huge grin and the sound of his voice saying "I knew you'd cave!"

But in fact, I have caved.

And now that I've caved, I'm thoroughly enjoying myself! My new Sony Ericsson 880i is the cutest little phone I've ever seen. My wonderful cube-neighbor, Yih Fong (pictured here with teammate Ta Loong), has this tiny little Sony Walkman phone and I wasn't able to take my eyes off it.

Now I have it too, and look at how much I can capture on the spot with the built in camera...

feasts of fried fish at the local hawker center,

bowls of bizarre cendol with bright green gummy worms...

and a fruit feast to make even the hardiest fruit eaters take notice. See here how Brian eats 10x more fruit than me!

I must admit, the new phone is adding fun to my life. As long as the work SMS's don't come too often, I think it'll be ok. Next stop, MMS, Video Phone, and a ringtone to my favorite Ze Frank song "How do you work this thing?"

Mohammad called!

2007-07-14T12:02:00.000+08:00

What a nice surprise! It only took us 1 ½ years to reconnect... (ha ha)… what with his move to London and ours to Singapore.
But it’s understandable – he’s been just a tad busy… flying twice a month to Nigeria for a joint venture project between his company, Chevron, and several other oil companies. It’s project work and a big change from his job in Angola, which was more about running a stable, base business. Mohammad loves the international work, and I don’t think we’re going to see him buying a house in San Francisco anytime soon.

Mohammad is one of the only MBA classmates I keep in touch with. It’s so wonderful to hear his voice. And of course, someone else’s life always sounds far more exciting and exotic than our own, and his is no exception. Ooh, aah, Nigeria. Wait a minute… is the food good there? Do they play Harry Potter in the theater? Maybe I should say ooh ahh London… yes, that’s better. Thanks for calling, Mo! You made my weekend!

weekend in paradise

2007-06-10T13:30:00.002+08:00

We had no idea it would be this good.

Four glorious days in one of the world's most spectacular places. It just shows us that no matter how much we travel, this great world always has more to offer - to fill our souls to the brim with the beauty of the earth.

This is west Railay beach in Krabi, Thailand. Picture Zion National Park meeting the Caribbean, and you've got Krabi. Add to that the warmth of the Thai people and a mellow, low-season tourist atmosphere, and it's all good.

I loved how Railay catered to all generations. We enjoyed watching young children play and older couples holding hands along the beach. We saw rockclimbers hanging off cliffs by thin rope, and the usual complement of backpackers stumbling along with their life's belongings in their rucksack.

"Hey look, Singaporeans!" You could spot them easily. Young girls with flashy clothes, traveling in packs. Or else groups of activity-minded adventurers, not content unless they accomplished something productive on their holiday. They rented kayaks, hiked trails, and took boat tours. Always in a group, and always fully scheduled. Do they ever rest?

We rested! But we walked a lot too. There were multiple beaches, hillside hikes, and viewpoints. The most beautiful beach was at the south end of the penninsula, 20 min walk from west Railay. A sole luxury hotel sat tastefully back from the beach, so visitors and hotel guests alike could enjoy the pure experience of white powdery sand, limestone cliffs, and many variations of blue and green in the bath-like Andaman sea.

Each day we took advantage of the variety Railay had to offer. We breakfasted overlooking the cliffs at west Railay. We lunched overlooking the mangroves at east Railay beach, the backpacker ghetto. There, we discussed the business of Railay with a bright young Thai bartender, who also entertained us with clever magic tricks! Afternoons were back to west Railay for more swimming, sunbathing, and a cool drink. We met a fun group of Singaporean expats at the Flame Tree. We all asked ourselves the same question - why don't we live HERE? I don't think they moved from their spot for three days! And who can blame them? What a view...

In the evening, young Thai men getting off work showed their talents at football while the tourists watched both the game and the stunning sunset beyond.

It's the kind of place you never want to leave. And we're heading back as soon as we can.

Happy Childhood

2007-05-27T10:51:00.000+08:00

Blast from the past! My oldest sister Idelle scanned these photos of the farm where we grew up in New York State. That's my Dad on his grape harvestor, at the "home farm" overlooking Keuka Lake.

That's me and my sister Teresa at our house. I loved that hill behind the fence. It had a great view down to the lake. Seeing these is such a treat, reminds me of happy, carefree times.

Construction junction

2007-05-05T09:56:00.000+08:00

Whirrrrrrr. Zzzzzzzzz. Crash! Ah, the restful sound of high-pitched saws and breaking glass. The foliage has been removed between our condo and the apartments next door. Two palm trees and all the undergrowth are gone. Instead, we have a clear view of the demolition as these old four-story chinese-style apartments make way for a modern high-rise. We'll be living next to this noise and mess for the next year. We chose this condo in part because there were established properties around us, but in Singapore, there is no escaping the endless construction boom. Honey, turn up the radio! (photo: apartments next door in the good old days)

Hanoi in Layers

2007-05-01T21:15:00.000+08:00

"Hey, it's cool here!" That was the first thing we noticed. Cool and dry. Heaven. We liked Hanoi right from the start. The ride in from the airport was impressive, with obvious signs of growth and prosperity. New, richly embellished homes near large manufacturing plants were intermixed with the ubiquitous rice crop. As we entered the city proper, there were still many wealthy dwellings, but we could also see the rabbit warren of alleyways, with people living both outside and in. (photo: Erik enjoying our balcony)

We settled into our hotel in the busy old quarter and stepped out onto the balcony. Boy was this place crowded! We could see directly into the muti-storied house across the street, a glimpse into family life on their holiday weekend. Below on the street level, people and motorbikes were everywhere, and it was necessary to walk in the street. Sidewalks were the domain of motorbike parking and vendors set up between storefronts. Vendors had minimalist setups, offering items such as coffee, noodles, cigarettes, and barber stations. (photo: barber shop setup on the sidewalk)

"So what should we do first?" The answer to that came quickly. Take a nap! This is vacation, after all. After a good rest, we headed out into the chaos.

Soon we noticed that there were many layers of vending - from the posh and simple storefronts to the sidewalk setups to the door-to-door. This last lot consisted mostly of women in conical hats carrying baskets stacked with inventory - we saw everything from flowers and fruits to t-shirts and toys. (photo: mobile vendors)

"My tummy hurts." Actually, that happened in Singapore, but I was in no mood to risk it getting worse. Hence, we chose a lovely upscale vegetarian restaurant for several meals. The French influence is a pleasant mix with the local food flavors. My favorite was a tasty crepe filled with eggs and mushrooms, seasoned with soy sauce and brightened with fresh herbs. Yum! Everything was good at that place, and my tummyache quickly disappeared.

At night, the old quarter transformed once again, giving way to an entirely different set of sidewalk sellers, mostly offering beer and light meals. The streets were hopping with locals enjoying a beer and conversation. The young traveler scene was also alive and well, encouraged, no doubt, by the free-flowing 13 cent beers. (photo: men playing checkers)

Our cultural highlight was the Museum of Ethnology, especially the grounds, where they've constructed numerous traditional homes of the many tribal people residing in Vietnam. Each group is distinct, with colorful embroidered costumes, similar to the hill tribes in Thailand and Yunnan. The only other site we made it to was the tomb of Ho Chi Minh. A great pillared block with military guards and a quiet park. More enjoyable were the lovely mansions on the tree-lined embassy row leading up to the monument, where we caught a glimpse of fine expat life. (photo: Cheryl at the Ho Chi Minh mauseleum)

Coffee in Vietnam is dark and rich and thick. We fell in love with it, and stopped for a cup several times a day. (photo: vietnamese coffee)

Interaction with people wasn't easy. Aside from a mighty language barrier, there was the difficulty of smiling in a big city where eye contact often means an opening for the sales pitch to begin. "Cam on" means thank you, and that's as much Vietnamese as we knew, but it usually evoked an appreciative smile. In the shops, ladies were often charming and gracious, and we had the most fun with them, laughing and giggling at our struggle to understand each other. They patiently allowed us space while we shopped. And there were many wonderful things to buy! Laquerware, bamboo bowls, delicate little purses, statues. It was impossible to take it all in.

In fact, when we left, Hanoi reminded me of hiking. After a hike, the mountains that previously looked flat and two dimensional reveal themselves as ravines, meadows, and outcrops, which are easily seen after expending so much effort traversing them. This was Hanoi - only after several days did we start to see the many layers that reveal the whole scene.

Not worth it!

2007-04-30T10:05:00.000+08:00

Yes, it was crispy, carmellized, and delicious. Dressed in butter and garlic, it was our kind of vegetable. But at what price? Sweat racing down my back, stinging droplets blurring my vision. Two (yes two!) showers in just 30 minutes. You know I love to cook. In more temperate climes, I'll pick it up again. But in the heat of Singapore, I'm off to the hawker center. This cruciferous crusade was not worth it!

Drumming in Singapore

2007-04-21T17:49:00.000+08:00

This is the West African djembe. Erik started playing in Boise about 6 months before we moved to Singapore, and I started a few months later. We brought our drums with us and found a wonderful teacher named Kelvin Kew, founder of Lila Drums.

Our class meets Friday nights and it's a great stress reliever after a long week. Every few months we perform. Pictured here are some of our performances. Note Erik stepping out to play a solo! Not surprisingly, he plays well.

We've made good friends at Lila. The whole class has fun together. We come from all over - Singapore, Australia, Hong Kong, Canada, Germany, and the US. Stephanie, at right, made the red noses for us (pictured below), so we could play the "clown rhythm" and surprise our teacher! He loved that. Steph's our class leader, without a doubt. She records the lessons, posts them to her website, and invites us over for informal practice sessions at her school. We wouldn't get much practice without Steph!

You can check out what the djembe sounds like on youtube. It's a blast!

Great World City

2007-04-21T13:23:00.000+08:00

"I'm heading off to Great World City, need anything?" Erik is preparing for his weekly trip to our neighborhood shopping mall in Singapore, where the crowds are manageable and the Malay food is fabulous. "Whole grain bread from the French grocer" I say, "and a takeaway of nasi lemak from the Malay stall at the food court." He's out the door to catch bus 195.

We've been in Singapore just over a year now. We like it, despite missing the mountains of our beautiful adopted hometown of Boise, Idaho in the US. We're not sure how long we'll stay in Singapore, the plan is a few more years. Our work here is rewarding and we love the experience of living abroad. There's so much to discover. This is our third time living in Asia. I doubt it will be our last!

This year we're seeing a lot of Southeast Asia. In February, we went to Yangon, capital of Myanmar (Burma). I highly recommend it! At the crossroads of the subcontinent and SE Asia, it's got much of the chaos of India with the buddhist gentleness of Thailand. Guidebooks helped us spend more money with the locals than the regime. Yangon is truly a trip back in time - nice for the tourist, but the locals deserve better. The pagodas are breathtaking, and we loved seeing young couples hold hands in the park, a rare sight in much of Asia. Food was mostly mediocre, but everything else was a delight. Especially the local train ride around the city, while it glowed in the afternoon sun.

Last month we experienced Vietnam for the first time. Our short 48 hrs in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) was spent in museums, city walks, and pho restaurants. At night, we watched the city light up and enjoyed seeing people gather on the Opera House steps to hang out. This place is nothing like Yangon, it's modernzing quickly and has a bright economic future.

These trips are great for appreciating the clean, orderly Singapore. It may not be as vibrant as the rest of Asia, but it has a quiet charm and beauty. When work is stressful, Singapore is just what's needed.

It's starting to rain. The palms are swaying. Time to open the windows and enjoy the breeze.